Introduction to Mount Elgon National Park

Situated on the Kenyan-Ugandan border, Mount Elgon National Park is named after Mount Elgon, an extinct shield volcano which first erupted more than 24 million years ago.

Mount Elgon has the largest surface area of any extinct volcano in the world, and its 4,321m peak is the eighth highest in Africa.

Of the park’s 1,279km² surface area, the Ugandan section covers 1,110km² whilst the smaller Kenyan section covers 169km².

Wildlife

Mount Elgon National Park is home to a plethora of wildlife. The lower slopes of Mount Elgon are inhabited by elephants, buffalo, and a variety of small antelope.

The dense montane forest contains primates such as the black-and-white colobus monkey and the blue monkey.

The park is also home to over 300 species of bird, including the Tacazze sunbird and the lammergeier.

Leopard escaping the Kidepo Valley sun.

Local Culture

Mount Elgon National Park is home to 2 tribes, the Sabiny and the Bagisu. The Sabiny speak Sebei, a Nilotic language and the Bagisu speak a dialect of the Lumasaba language called Lugisu.

The Bagisu believe that Mount Elgon is the manifestation of their founding father, Masaba, and call the mountain by this name. Both tribes undertake subsistence farming.

 

 

 

 

Mount Elgon National Park
Governing body	Kenya Wildlife Service, Uganda Wildlife Authority

Mount Elgon National Park is a national park in Kenya and Uganda that lies 140 kilometres (87 mi) northeast of Lake Victoria. The park covers an area of 1,279 square kilometres (494 sq mi). The Ugandan part of the park covers 1,110 km² (430 sq mi) while the Kenyan part covers 169 km² (65 sq mi).^[1][2] The Kenyan part of the park was gazetted in 1968,^[3] the Ugandan part in 1992.^[1]

The park is named after Mount Elgon, an extinct shield volcano on the border of Uganda and Kenya.

Location

Mount Elgon National Park is uniquely split down the middle by the Kenyan-Ugandan border. Mount Elgon is an important water catchment for the Nzoia River, which flows to Lake Victoria, and for the Turkwel River (known as the Suam River in Uganda), which flows into Lake Turkana.

Climate

The climate is moist to moderate dry. Annual rainfall is over 1,270 millimetres (50 in).^[3] The dry seasons run from June to August and from December to March, although it can rain at any time.^[4]

Vegetation

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Elgon's slopes support a rich variety of vegetation ranging from montane forest to high open moorland studded with the giant lobelia, groundsel and heather plants^[5][6] The vegetation varies with elevation. The mountain slopes are covered with Elgon olive (Olea capensis subsp. macrocarpa) and Aningeria adolfi-friederici wet montane forest. At higher elevations, this changes to olive and Afrocarpus gracilior forest, and then an Afrocarpus and bamboo Yushania alpina zone. Higher still is a Hagenia abyssinica zone and then moorland with heaths Erica arborea and Erica trimera, tussock grasses such as Agrostis gracilifolia and Festuca pilgeri, herbs such as Alchemilla, Helichrysum, Lobelia, and the giant groundsels Senecio barbatipes and Senecio elgonensis.

The botanical diversity of the park includes giant Afrocarpus, Elgon olive (Olea capensis subsp. macrocarpa), African juniper (Juniperus procera), pillarwood (Cassipourea malosana), elderberry (Sambucus adnata), pure stands of Afrocarpus gracilior and many orchids.

Of the 400 species recorded for the area, the following are of particular note as they only occur in high elevation broadleaf montane forest: Ardisiandra wettsteinii, Carduus afromontanus, Echinops hoehnelii, Ranunculus keniensis (previously thought to be endemic to Mount Kenya), and Romulea keniensis.

Wildlife

Mammals

Elephants and buffalo frequent the lower slopes. The park is also home to a variety of small antelope and duiker, as well as forest monkeys, including the black-and-white colobus and blue monkey. Red-tailed monkey have been reported after being thought to be locally extinct. Both leopard and hyena exist there.^[7]

Birds

Mount Elgon is home to at least 144 bird species. Of particular interest are Jackson's spurfowl, the eastern bronze-naped pigeon, Hartlaub's turaco, the Tacazze sunbird and the endangered lammergeier, due to their restricted range.^[7]

Invertebrates

Maathai's longleg, an endangered dragonfly was discovered here in 2005 and named after Nobel Prize winner Wangari Maathai.

Half of Uganda's butterfly species have been reported in Mt. Elgon.

Conservation management

Prior to colonial administration, the land around Mount Elgon was managed based on indigenous power structures and rules, which forbade certain excessive utilization of natural resources on the communally owned upper elevations of the mountain. Demand for these resources was met sustainably because the human population density in the surrounding area was many times smaller than it is today.^[7]

Uganda

The Uganda Protectorate administration gazetted its side of Mount Elgon a Forest Reserve, managed by the Forestry Department, in 1929. In 1937, the boundary survey was completed but parcels were repeatedly degazetted to provide land for local residents. In 1940, the area became the Mount Elgon Crown Forest and in 1951 a Central Forest Reserve.^[7]

In 1983, the Ugandan government opened up a 6,000-hectare (15,000-acre) of the reserve for settlement by the encroaching Benet-Ndorobo group. An additional 1,500 hectares (3,700 acres) were settled illegally. The area legally remained a part of the reserve until 2002 when it was officially degazetted.^[9] Management of the park disintegrated during the civil wars. In January 1994, the reserve was finally converted into a national park, although timber harvesting continued in some areas.^[7]

Attractions

Together with the fauna and flora, the park has a variety of scenery; this includes cliffs, caves, waterfalls, gorges, mesas, calderas, hot springs, and the mountain peaks. The most popular areas are the four explorable, vast caves where frequent night visitors such as elephants and buffaloes come to lick the natural salt found on the cave walls. Kitum cave, with overhanging crystalline walls, enters 200 m into the side of Mt. Elgon.

At the Endebess Bluff there a panoramic view of the areas' escarpments, gorges, mesas, and rivers. The highest peak of Mt. Elgon on the Kenya side, Koitoboss, measures 4,155 m (13,632 ft), and is easily reached by hikers in about two hours from the road's end. Activities include

• Vehicle circuits leading to animal viewing areas, the caves and Koitoboss peak.
• Self-guided walking trails
• Hiking to Endebess Bluff and Koitoboss Peak
• Primate and bird watching
• Cave explorations
• Camping photography

Mount Elgon Caves

Recent studies have shown that elephants and other mammals are major contributors to the development of these unique natural phenomena. The animals frequently visit at night to 'mine' the natural salt by licking it from the cave walls. The caves are mapped and Kitum, Chepnyali, and Mackingeny can be explored by visitors to the park

Cheworei family caves in Chesokwo area which includes Chebui caves, Kebenob-Teretit caves and the Kochonget.

Other attractions

Other attractions include ancient cave paintings near the trailhead at Budadiri, and hot springs in the former volcano's crater which bubble at temperatures of up to 48 °C.^[6][12]

Jackson's Pool and Jackson's Peak

• Jackson's Pool stands at 4,050m and is a natural pool with shallow waters. This pool lies in the shadow of the 4,165m high Jackson's Peak, a free-standing volcanic plug rising from the western flank of the mountain. These features were named after the explorer Frederick Jackson, who in 1889 was the first European to climb Mount Elgon.^[13]

 

Things to do at Mount Elgon National Park

Hiking

Mount Elgon’s hiking trails are one of its major attractions. Unlike other climbs in East Africa, Mount Elgon’s trails are accessible throughout the year and they require no specialist climbing equipment.

Mount Elgon’s hiking trails are less congested than other hiking trails in East Africa, allowing you to enjoy its stunning scenery without any distractions. Mount Elgon has 3 main hiking trails which vary in length and difficulty.

Hiking Trails

The Sasa Trail: The shortest but most challenging trail is a four-day round trip. This is the original route to Wagagai, Mount Elgon’s 4,321m peak. The trail begins in the town of Budadiri in the Eastern Region of Uganda at an altitude of 1,250m. The first day involves a tough ascent of 1,650m. The trail then enters the forest, and you reach Mudangi Cliffs which are climbed using ladders. Next, there's 2.5 hour walk through the picturesque bamboo forest. Day 2 features a gentler walk, and you will reach Wagagai on Day 3.

The Piswa Trail: A less strenuous (but longer) alternative to the Sasa Trail. You will cover c.49km across 7 days. The trail begins at the village of Kapkwata on the north side of the mountain at an altitude of 2,190m. The trail is famous for its breath-taking views of Uganda’s Karamoja Plains and Kenya’s Kapeguria and Nandi Hills.

The Sipi Trail: The longest trail covers 56km and takes around 4-6 days to complete. The trail begins at the Kapkwai Forest Exploration Centre, just a few kilometres from Sipi Falls. One of its highlights is the section through Tatum Cave which is famous for its ancient cave paintings.

Day Hikes: The Forest Exploration Centre has opened 3 shorter trails which are only 3-7km. These trails are perfect for less experienced hikers and for travellers who want to get a taste of Mount Elgon’s beautiful scenery and wildlife within a short period of time.

Mountain Biking

In 2012, the Uganda Wildlife Authority opened mountain biking trails. Bikes can be rented from Sipi River Lodge. One 1 ½ hour trail runs from Sipi Trading Centre at an altitude of 1,775m to Chema Hill in Kapchorwa.

In 2012, the Uganda Wildlife Authority opened mountain biking trails at Mount Elgon.

Bird Watching

Mount Elgon National Park contains over 300 species of bird and it has been recognised as an Important Bird Area (IBA).

Bird enthusiasts should look out for rare species like the endangered lammergeier.

You should also look out for the African blue fly-catcher, the African goshawk, and the cinnamon-chested bee eater.

Fortunate travellers may see the rare and beautiful Tacazze Sunbird.

When to Visit Mount Elgon National Park

Although Mount Elgon is accessible at any time of the year, we recommend that you visit during the drier seasons of June to August and November to March.

Visiting in November or December will allow you to see its delightful wildflowers in bloom.

In contrast, Mount Elgon’s trails are more slippery in the wetter months and this can make your hike more challenging. Whenever you visit, you'll be surrounded by panoramic views. 

Getting to Mount Elgon National Park

From Kampala

The journey from Kampala to Mount Elgon National Park is around 235km.

The first leg is on a tarmac road that runs through Jinja to Mbale, a city in the Eastern Region of Uganda. The road then climbs to Kapchorwa on Mount Elgon’s north-western side.

The second leg of the journey is on dirt roads that lead off the Mbale-Kapchorwa road to reach the various trailheads.